Species Profile & Temperament

Critical Amphibian Care Notes

Amphibians absorb everything through their permeable skin. This means:

- ALWAYS wash and rinse hands thoroughly before handling (soap residue, lotion, hand sanitizer = toxic)

- Water quality is CRITICAL: use dechlorinated tap water in the dish and RO or distilled water for misting

- Chemical sensitivity — no aerosol sprays, air fresheners, or cleaning products near enclosure

- Temperature sensitivity: amphibians can't cool themselves down, so too hot is more dangerous than a little too cool

Housing & Enclosure

Enclosure Type & Size

• Type: Glass terrarium or aquarium
• Size: Floor space matters more than height. Ask our staff to help you choose a size for one frog or a pair. Bigger is better.
• Shape: A low, wide glass terrarium or aquarium
• Lid: Secure, ventilated screen lid required (but cover a portion to retain humidity if needed)
• Enclosure Recommendations: Exo Terra Glass Terrarium, low and wide (cross-ref: Amphibian/Reptile Enclosures)

Substrate

• Recommended: Moisture-retaining, burrow-friendly substrate. They are semi-fossorial and love to dig backward into the dirt.
• Zoo Med Eco Earth (Coconut Fiber)
• Organic topsoil (chemical and fertilizer-free)
• Bioactive mixes (e.g., Terra Firma)
• Depth: Deep enough for the frog to bury itself completely
• Bioactive Option: Excellent choice with springtails and isopods to help break down waste.
• Avoid:
• Avoid: Gravel, pebbles, or small rocks — severe impaction risk if swallowed during feeding
• Avoid: Bark chunks — impaction risk and difficult to burrow in
• Avoid: Reptile carpet — cannot burrow, hard to keep clean

Water Feature

• Type: Shallow water dish, large enough for the frog to soak in completely, but shallow enough that the water level does not go above the frog's mouth.
• Water Type: Dechlorinated tap water only. Never use plain tap water, and never use RO or distilled water alone in the dish.
• Water Changes: Check it whenever you look in, and change it whenever it's dirty. Tomato frogs frequently drag substrate into their water bowls.

Décor & Enrichment

• Hides: Cork bark flats, half-logs, or buried plastic pots. Place over the substrate so they can dig underneath.
• Plants: Live plants (pothos, ferns, moss) help maintain humidity and provide cover. Fake plants are also acceptable.
• Leaf Litter: Highly recommended. Provides excellent cover, mimics their natural forest floor habitat, and encourages natural behavior.

Temperature

Heating

• Primary: Many homes need no extra heat. Keep a thermometer in the enclosure to check.
• Supplemental: If the room is cold, use a low-wattage under-tank heater (UTH) on the side of the tank (not the bottom, to prevent burning when they burrow), controlled by a thermostat.
• AVOID high-wattage heat lamps directly over the enclosure — they dry out the habitat and can rapidly overheat the frog.
• (cross-ref: Reptile/Amphibian Heating)

Humidity

• Target Range: Ask our staff for the range to aim for, and keep a hygrometer in the enclosure.
• How to Maintain: Mist with RO or distilled water, let the surface dry a little between mistings, use moisture-retaining substrate, and keep live plants.
• Note: Ensure the substrate is damp, but not a muddy, waterlogged swamp. Squeeze a handful of substrate; it should hold its shape but not drip water.

Lighting

• Photoperiod: 12 hours light / 12 hours dark
• UVB: Optional. If you use one, choose a low-output bulb, date it, and replace it when its label says.
• UVB Recommendations: Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HO 5.0 (elevated or placed over a screen) (cross-ref: UVB Lighting)

Diet & Nutrition

Primary Diet

Tomato frogs are voracious, ambush insectivores. They will eat almost any invertebrate that moves and fits in their mouth.

Feeding Schedule

Prey Items

• Staples: Crickets, Dubia roaches, earthworms (nightcrawlers - cut into pieces if too large)
• Treats (feed sparingly): Waxworms, hornworms, silkworms
• Prey Size: Offer insects no longer than the space between the frog's eyes.

Supplements

• Supplement Recommendations: Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 and Zoo Med Reptivite (cross-ref: Reptile/Amphibian Supplements)

Gut-Loading

• Feed insects a nutritious diet 24–48 hours before offering as food. Carotenoid-rich foods (like sweet potatoes and carrots) fed to the insects can help enhance the frog's red coloration.

Foods to Avoid

• Avoid: Gravel/substrate (always feed carefully or use a feeding dish/tongs to avoid accidental ingestion)
• Avoid: Wild-caught insects (pesticide risk — potentially fatal due to skin absorption)
• Avoid: Pinky mice (too high in fat, difficult to digest for this species)

Water (Drinking/Soaking)

• Amphibians "drink" primarily through skin absorption. They absorb water through a specialized "seat patch" on their bellies when sitting on damp substrate or in their water dish.

Health & Husbandry

Common Health Issues

1. Intestinal Obstruction / Impaction — Symptoms: Lethargy, bloating, lack of feces, loss of appetite / Cause: Accidental ingestion of gravel, pebbles, or bark chips during feeding / Prevention: Use safe substrates (Eco Earth, topsoil) and feed from tongs or a clear area.
2. Red Leg Syndrome — Symptoms: Reddening/hemorrhaging on the underside of legs and belly, lethargy, open sores, weight loss / Cause: Opportunistic bacterial infection (e.g., Aeromonas) triggered by poor water quality, dirty substrate, and stress / Prevention: Maintain strict hygiene, use dechlorinated water, spot-clean daily. Requires immediate veterinary treatment.
3. Dehydration / Toxing Out — Symptoms: Sunken eyes, dry skin, lethargy, sitting in water dish constantly, erratic movements / Cause: Low humidity, or sitting in soiled water/substrate absorbing their own waste / Prevention: Keep humidity in the range our staff gives you, change dirty water right away, use dechlorinated water.

Signs of Good Health

• Plump, round appearance (not bloated with fluid)
• Bright, clear eyes
• Quick feeding response
• Burrows into the substrate and rests calmly during the day

Signs of Illness

• Red Flag: Extreme lethargy or unresponsiveness
• Red Flag: Sunken eyes or severe weight loss
• Red Flag: Red patches or sores on the belly or legs
• Red Flag: Bloating (feeling like a water balloon) — see an exotic vet

Shedding

• Amphibians shed their skin regularly and typically eat it, pulling it forward into their mouths using their front legs. This is normal and a sign of a growing, healthy frog.

Water Quality (Critical)

• Chlorine/Chloramine: ZERO — always dechlorinate tap water using a reptile/amphibian safe water conditioner (e.g., Zoo Med ReptiSafe).

Veterinary Needs

• We recommend an exotic-specialized veterinarian with amphibian experience.

Color Morphs / Varieties

Tomato frogs do not have selective "morphs" like reptiles. Color variations are based on species, sex, and diet.

• Dyscophus guineti (False Tomato Frog) — The most common species in captivity. Tends to have a yellowish-orange to reddish-orange hue, often with dark lateral stripes running from the eyes down the sides.
• Dyscophus antongilii (True Tomato Frog) — Rarer in the pet trade due to protection status. Exhibits a deep, brilliant, solid red color.
• Sexual Dimorphism — Females are significantly larger and brighter red/orange. Males are smaller, duller, and tend to be more yellowish-brown.
• Age and Diet — Juveniles are duller and "ripen" as they age. A diet rich in carotenoids (gut-loading insects with carrots, sweet potatoes) helps intensify their red/orange coloration.

Handling Guidelines

• Minimize handling — amphibians are observation pets, not handling pets.
• Toxic Secretions — When stressed, tomato frogs secrete a thick, white, sticky substance. It is a mild irritant to humans and can cause allergic reactions. Avoid touching your eyes or mouth, and wash your hands immediately.
• Wet, clean hands only — If you must handle them, rinse hands thoroughly with dechlorinated water (no soap residue). Better yet, use moistened, powder-free nitrile gloves.
• Support the body — scoop them gently from underneath; never grab by the limbs.

Bioactive Setup Notes

• Cleanup Crew: Springtails and isopods that like a humid tank.
• Live Plants: Pothos, Philodendron, creeping fig, ferns. Ensure plants are sturdy, as these heavy frogs can trample delicate vegetation.
• Drainage Layer: Essential for bioactive setups (e.g., hydroballs covered by a mesh screen) to prevent the substrate from becoming waterlogged.
• Benefits: Reduces the need for full substrate changes, maintains a natural humidity cycle, and processes the frog's waste.

Compatibility

• Cohabitation: Same species and similar size only. Add a second frog slowly in a neutral space, and separate them if they fight.
• Caution: Monitor during feeding times. They have large mouths and a strong feeding response; accidental cannibalism or injury can occur if a smaller frog gets in the way of a hungry larger frog.
• With Other Species: NEVER mix amphibian species.

Oregon & Local Keeping Notes

• Oregon: Questions about permits or the law? Ask a store manager.

What We Use & Recommend

These are products we use and recommend for this species. Stock varies by store, so ask us what we have in store today.

Last updated: 2026-08-04

How We Keep Them at Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply

• Beating Dry Oregon Furnace Air (and Summer Heat Spikes): Across the Willamette Valley and Portland Metro, running the house furnace all winter drops indoor humidity to 25–35%, which quickly causes dried-out skin and dehydration in screen-top tanks. To hold steady humidity reliably for Tomato Frog, our crew uses a deep substrate bed (or our store-shelf 10-Part Bioactive Mix of ReptiSoil, Coco Fiber, Orchiata Bark, Sphagnum Moss, and Leaf Litter), a dedicated humid hide packed with damp sphagnum moss, and partial screen cover when needed.
• Thermostat & Linear UVB Standard: Any heat for our tomato frogs is a low-wattage heat mat on the side of the tank, on a thermostat, with no strong heat lamp. Lights run on a 12-hour day/night timer.
• Shopping at Newberg & Gresham: For enclosures, thermostats, UVB lighting, bioactive supplies, springtails, isopods and feeders at Critter Cabana (Newberg) and Gresham Pet Supply, ask us what we have in store today.

Common Questions (FAQ)

What size tank does an adult Tomato Frog actually need?

An adult Tomato Frog needs a low, wide glass terrarium with a secure screen lid and soft substrate deep enough to bury in. Floor space matters more than height. Ask our staff to help you choose a size and for the temperature range we keep ours at.

How do I keep Tomato Frog humidity up during dry Oregon winters?

Oregon winter furnace heat dries out thin bedding fast. Use a deep moisture-retaining substrate mix (such as Zoo Med ReptiSoil blended with coco fiber, Orchiata bark, and sphagnum moss), provide an enclosed humid hide, and cover 50–70% of an open screen top with HVAC foil tape or a PVC panel if ambient humidity drops too low.

What is the best bioactive clean-up crew for a Tomato Frog?

Pair springtails with one isopod kind that likes a humid tank. We'll help you pick an isopod kind that suits your tank's climate, and pick one isopod kind per build. Our 1-Page or Tri-Fold Bioactive Substrate Recipe Guide covers the rest.

Where can I get Tomato Frog setup supplies, live feeders, and thermostats in Oregon?

Ask us what we have in store today at Critter Cabana in Newberg (514 E First St, 503-537-2887) and Gresham Pet Supply (2185 NW Burnside Rd, 503-665-7606).