Habitat & Enclosure

Enclosure Size (Minimum)

• Juvenile (0–6 months): 10–20 gallon tank is acceptable temporarily. Larger is always better.
• Adult: 20–40 gallons. A 20-gallon long (30" x 12" x 12") is the minimum for one adult.
• Ideal: A 36" x 18" x 18" front-opening terrarium is a spacious upgrade. Front-opening enclosures reduce stress because you approach from the side, not from above (predator direction).
• Enclosure Recommendations: Exo Terra Glass Terrarium 36x18x18 or Zilla Front-Opening Terrarium (cross-ref: Reptile Enclosures)

Do NOT cohabitate leopard geckos. They are solitary animals. Housing them together leads to stress, bullying, competition for food, and injury — even if they "seem fine" for months. Females can sometimes coexist in very large enclosures, but we strongly advise against it.

Substrate

• Recommended:
• Paper towels (easiest, safest, best for juveniles and quarantine)
• Slate or ceramic tile (holds belly heat well, easy to clean, natural look)
• Reptile carpet (washable, no impaction risk)
• Topsoil/clay mix (70/30 organic topsoil to excavator clay) for naturalistic setups — adults only
• Avoid:
• Avoid: Calcium sand, play sand, vita-sand — impaction risk
• Avoid: Walnut shell — sharp edges, impaction risk
• Avoid: Gravel or pebbles — impaction risk
• Avoid: Wood shavings (cedar or pine) — toxic oils

Décor & Enrichment

• 3 hides minimum: Warm hide, cool hide, and humid/moist hide (critical for shedding)
• Humid hide: Plastic container with entry hole, lined with damp sphagnum moss or paper towels. Place on the warm side.
• Climbing opportunities: Cork bark, rock ledges, branches (they climb more than people think!)
• Foliage: Artificial plants for cover and visual barriers
• Dig box (optional): Container of organic topsoil for enrichment digging behavior
• (cross-ref: Reptile Décor, Hides & Caves)

Temperature

Critical: Always use a thermostat with any heating device. Unregulated heat sources can burn your gecko or overheat the enclosure. A digital thermometer with a probe (not stick-on dial gauges) is essential for accurate readings.

Heating Options

• Primary: Under-tank heater (UTH) on a thermostat — leopard geckos absorb belly heat for digestion. This is the traditional and effective method.
• Alternative: Deep heat projector (DHP) or ceramic heat emitter (CHE) — provides overhead infrared heat without visible light. Good for nighttime heating.
• Alternative: Halogen basking lamp — provides excellent infrared-A and infrared-B heat. Considered the gold standard for more naturalistic setups. Use with a dimming thermostat.
• Avoid: Red/blue "night" bulbs — they CAN see these colors and it disrupts their day/night cycle.
• Heating Recommendations: Zoo Med ReptiTherm UTH + Zoo Med ReptiTemp Digital Thermostat, or Exo Terra Ceramic Heat Emitter (cross-ref: Reptile Heating)

Lighting

• Photoperiod: A normal day and night cycle: lights on by day, off at night.
• UVB: Beneficial but not strictly required. Low-level UVB (shade-dweller level, Ferguson Zone 1) supports vitamin D3 synthesis, immune function, and natural behavior.
• UVB Recommendations: A low-output shade-dweller lamp such as Arcadia ShadeDweller, which lists leopard geckos by name. Never a strong desert bulb. Follow the lamp label for distance, and date the bulb. (cross-ref: UVB Lighting)
• If no UVB is provided: You MUST supplement with calcium + D3 (see Supplements below).

Humidity

• Ambient Target: 30–40% (they are arid species)
• Humid Hide: 70–80% inside the moist hide at all times
• How to Achieve: The humid hide with damp sphagnum moss is usually sufficient. Re-wet the moss in the humid hide every 2 days. Do NOT mist the entire enclosure — excess humidity causes respiratory infections.

Water

• Shallow water dish, refreshed daily. Place on the cool side.
• Leopard geckos drink from standing water (unlike many geckos that prefer droplets).

Diet & Nutrition

Primary Diet

Leopard geckos are strict insectivores — they eat only live insects. They do not eat plants, fruits, or vegetables.

• Staple feeders:
• Crickets — excellent nutrition, promotes natural hunting behavior
• Dubia Roaches — best overall feeder: high protein, low fat, low chitin, easy to gut-load
• Mealworms — convenient, good staple but higher in fat/chitin

Feeding Schedule

Prey Size Rule: Insects should be no longer than the width between the gecko's eyes. Oversized prey can cause choking or impaction.

Supplementary Foods (Variety & Treats)

• Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL / Calciworms / NutriGrubs) — naturally high in calcium, excellent treat
• Waxworms — high fat, use sparingly as an occasional treat only
• Hornworms — high moisture, great for hydration; use as occasional treat
• Silkworms — excellent nutrition, softer body; great variety option
• Superworms — adults only, harder chitin; use occasionally

Supplements

• Supplement Recommendations: Zoo Med Repti Calcium (with and without D3) + Zoo Med Reptivite Multivitamin or Fluker's Calcium with D3 (cross-ref: Reptile Supplements)

Gut-Loading: Feed your feeder insects a nutritious diet 24–48 hours before offering them to your gecko. Use gut-load products or fresh vegetables (carrots, squash, dark leafy greens). Healthy feeders = healthy gecko.

Foods to Avoid

• Avoid: Wild-caught insects — may carry pesticides or parasites
• Avoid: Fireflies / Lightning bugs — TOXIC, potentially fatal even in small amounts
• Avoid: Any plant matter — leopard geckos are obligate insectivores
• Avoid: Pinky mice — unnecessary for pet leos; too high in fat, can cause liver issues
• Avoid: Mealworm beetles — hard chitin, difficult to digest
• Avoid: Insects larger than the space between the gecko's eyes

Health & Husbandry

Common Health Issues

1. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) — Symptoms: Soft/rubbery jaw, bowed legs, tremors, lethargy, difficulty walking, loss of appetite / Cause: Calcium and/or D3 deficiency, lack of UVB / Prevention: Consistent calcium + D3 supplementation, consider low-level UVB, proper gut-loading of feeders

2. Stuck Shed (Dysecdysis) — Symptoms: Retained skin on toes, tail tip, or eyes; constriction bands that can cut off circulation / Cause: Inadequate humidity, no moist hide, dehydration, poor nutrition / Prevention: Maintain moist hide at all times, ensure proper hydration. If stuck shed occurs, give a shallow lukewarm soak for about 10 minutes, then gently work skin off with a damp cotton swab. If shed is stuck on the eyes, or a toe looks swollen or dark, see a vet who sees reptiles. NEVER pull dry shed off.

3. Cryptosporidiosis ("Crypto" / "Stick Tail Disease") — Symptoms: Extreme tail thinning ("stick tail"), chronic weight loss, regurgitation, diarrhea, lethargy / Cause: Protozoan parasite Cryptosporidium varanii / Prevention: Buy from reputable breeders and keep things clean. If you see these signs, see a vet who sees reptiles.

4. Impaction — Symptoms: Loss of appetite, bloated belly, constipation, lethargy / Cause: Ingestion of loose substrate (sand, gravel, walnut shell), oversized prey / Prevention: Use safe substrate (tile, paper towel, reptile carpet), appropriately sized prey, proper temperatures for digestion

5. Respiratory Infection — Symptoms: Wheezing, bubbles from nose/mouth, open-mouth breathing, mucus, lethargy / Cause: Too-high humidity, cold temperatures, poor ventilation, stress / Prevention: Maintain ambient humidity at 30–40%, ensure proper temperature gradient, good ventilation

6. Mouth Rot (Infectious Stomatitis) — Symptoms: Redness, swelling, or cheesy discharge around the mouth; appetite loss / Cause: Bacterial infection, often secondary to injury or stress / Prevention: Clean enclosure, proper humidity, avoid sharp cage furnishings

Signs of Good Health

• Alert, responsive, tongue-flicking to explore
• Bright, clear eyes (no cloudiness except during pre-shed)
• Plump, well-rounded tail (fat reserve indicator — should be roughly as wide as the neck)
• Clean, smooth skin with no stuck shed, lesions, or discoloration
• Regular appetite with enthusiastic feeding response
• Clean vent area (no caked feces or discharge)
• Active during dusk/evening hours; normal exploration behavior

Signs of Illness

• Red Flag: Thin or "stick" tail (sudden weight loss)
• Red Flag: Lethargic, unresponsive, not moving for extended periods
• Red Flag: Eyes closed during normally active hours; sunken eyes
• Red Flag: Not eating, especially with weight loss
• Red Flag: Discharge from eyes, nostrils, or mouth
• Red Flag: Wheezing, open-mouth breathing, or clicking sounds
• Red Flag: Diarrhea, regurgitation, or blood in stool
• Red Flag: Retained shed on toes, tail, or eyes
• Red Flag: Lumps, bumps, or swelling anywhere on the body

Shedding

• Normal Cycle: Juveniles shed more often than adults as they grow.
• Process: Skin turns pale/milky → gecko becomes less active → sheds in pieces and eats the shed skin (normal behavior — provides nutrients and removes scent from predators)
• Stuck Shed Protocol:

1. Place gecko in a shallow container with lukewarm water (about 80°F) and a damp paper towel for about 10 minutes
2. Gently work retained skin off with a dampened cotton swab — focus on toes, tail tip, and around eyes
3. NEVER pull dry shed — you will damage the new skin underneath
4. Check toes carefully — retained shed can constrict blood flow and cause toe loss. Stuck eye shed, or a toe that looks swollen or dark, needs a vet who sees reptiles.

Brumation

• Leopard geckos may enter a period of reduced activity (brumation) during winter months, even in captivity.
• Signs: Reduced appetite, sleeping more, spending more time in the cool hide.
• This is natural if temperatures drop slightly. Ensure water is always available.
• Brumation is NOT required for pet geckos. Maintain normal temperatures to avoid it.

Veterinary Needs

• If you see any of the signs above, see a vet who sees reptiles.

Common Morphs

Morphs are color and pattern variations produced through selective breeding. They do not affect care requirements (with rare exceptions noted below). Leopard geckos have one of the largest morph markets in the reptile hobby.

• Normal (Wild Type) — Yellow body with black/brown spots and bands. The classic look. Hardy and affordable.
• High Yellow — Selectively bred for increased yellow pigmentation and reduced spotting. One of the earliest morphs.
• Tangerine — Bright orange body coloration, selectively bred for intensity. "Carrot Tail" variants have orange at the base of the tail.
• Mack Snow — Co-dominant gene producing a white/pale yellow base with black bands. Hatchlings are born black and white and develop yellow with age.
• Super Mack Snow — Homozygous Mack Snow. White body with bold black spotting. Very striking.
• Tremper Albino — Most common albino strain. Pink/lavender eyes, light yellow body with pink/brown spots. Reduced melanin.
• Bell Albino — Vibrant yellow body with distinctive pink eyes and light brown spots. Often considered the most visually striking albino strain.
• Rainwater Albino (Las Vegas Albino) — Paler, more pastel coloring. Slightly darker eyes than other albino strains.
• Blizzard — Patternless, solid-colored body (white, yellow, or gray). Simple recessive gene.
• RAPTOR — Red-eyed Albino Patternless Tremper Orange. Combination morph with solid red/ruby eyes and orange body. Very popular.
• Eclipse — Solid black or partially black eyes ("snake eyes" variant has half-solid eyes). Can be combined with many other morphs.
• Giant / Super Giant — Notably larger than standard leopard geckos (100–150g+). Requires slightly larger enclosure.
• Black Night — Premium line-bred morph with intense, near-solid black body color. Among the most expensive morphs.
• Murphy Patternless — Solid yellow or cream body with no spots or bands. Hatchlings have pattern that fades with age.

Morph Health Warning: The Enigma morph carries a neurological condition called "Enigma Syndrome" (circling, head tilting, stargazing, poor coordination). The Lemon Frost morph is associated with iridophoroma tumors. We recommend researching morph genetics before purchasing and buying from reputable breeders who screen for health issues.

Can They Live Together? (Housing & Handling)

• Cohabitation: Strongly discouraged. Leopard geckos are solitary in the wild. Housing together causes chronic stress, food competition, and can result in severe injury — even among females.
• Handling Tips:
• Give a new gecko time to settle in before the first handling
• Start with short sessions and build up slowly
• Always approach from the side, never from above (predator response)
• Support the body — never grab or restrain the tail (they can drop it via autotomy)
• Dropped tails will regenerate but the new tail is shorter, bulbous, and has different scale patterns
• Handle over a soft surface or close to the ground in case of jumps

Oregon & Local Keeping Notes

• Oregon: Questions about permits or the law? Ask a store manager.
• General: Widely captive-bred.

What We Stock & Use in Our Stores

These are products we carry and recommend for this species. Ask any associate for help finding them in-store.

Last updated: 2026-08-04

How We Keep Them at Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply

• Beating Dry Oregon Furnace Air (and Summer Heat Spikes): Across the Willamette Valley and Portland Metro, running the house furnace all winter drops indoor humidity to 25–35%, which quickly causes stuck sheds and dehydration in screen-top tanks. For Leopard Gecko, our crew keeps the main floor dry (30–40%) and puts the moisture where it belongs: an enclosed humid hide packed with damp sphagnum moss, re-wet every 2 days.
• Thermostat & Linear UVB Standard: Every heating element in our Newberg and Gresham reptile rooms runs on a thermostat probe set to 88-92°F on the warm floor with a 75-80°F cool retreat, with lights on a day/night timer. In summer, if an upstairs room climbs above 82°F, a dimming thermostat automatically backs down the heat so the cool side never overheats.
• Shopping at Newberg & Gresham: For enclosures, thermostats, UVB lighting, bioactive supplies, springtails, isopods and feeders at Critter Cabana (Newberg) and Gresham Pet Supply, ask us what we have in store today.

Common Questions (FAQ)

What size tank does an adult Leopard Gecko actually need?

An adult Leopard Gecko needs at least a 20-gallon long (30x12x12 inches), and 20 to 40 gallons is better (36x18x18 is a spacious upgrade), so you can keep 88-92°F belly heat on the warm side and 75-80°F on the cool side.

How do I keep Leopard Gecko humidity right during dry Oregon winters?

Keep the main floor dry (30–40%). Don't mist the whole tank. Put the moisture in an enclosed humid hide packed with damp sphagnum moss, re-wet every 2 days, so your gecko can shed cleanly.

What is the best bioactive clean-up crew for a Leopard Gecko?

Leopard geckos do best on a solid, dry floor, especially young ones. If you want a bioactive setup for an adult, talk to our reptile staff first. It has to stay dry, so only an isopod kind that handles a drier tank fits. We'll help you pick an isopod kind that suits your tank's climate. Our 1-Page or Tri-Fold Bioactive Substrate Recipe Guide covers the rest.

Where can I get Leopard Gecko setup supplies, live feeders, and thermostats in Oregon?

Ask us what we have in store today at Critter Cabana in Newberg (514 E First St, 503-537-2887) and Gresham Pet Supply (2185 NW Burnside Rd, 503-665-7606).