Species Profile & Temperament

ARE THEY POISONOUS? We treat dart frogs as display frogs. Nobody handles them, and you should wash your hands after any work in the enclosure, the same as with any amphibian. Ask our staff if you have questions.

Notable Morphs & Locales

• Green & Black (Costa Rican, Panamanian): The classic, standard look featuring varying patterns of mint-green to deep forest-green over a jet black body.
• Super Blue: A stunning, highly sought-after morph featuring deep metallic blue patterns instead of green over a black body.
• Microspot / Fine Spot: A pattern mutation where the colored bands are broken up into tiny dots.
• Bronze / Campana: Features bronze or copper coloring mixed with the typical green/black.

Housing & Enclosure

Enclosure Size

• Minimum Enclosure: 18" x 18" x 18" for a pair or trio.
• Ideal Enclosure: 18" x 18" x 24" or 24" x 18" x 18".
• Style: Glass terrarium with front-opening doors. While they are mostly terrestrial, auratus climb much more than other dart frogs, so vertical space is highly appreciated.

Enclosure Setup (Bioactive is Best)

• Substrate: A proper drainage layer (hydroballs) separated by mesh, topped with 2-3 inches of ABG (Atlanta Botanical Gardens) mix or similar bioactive soil.
• Leaf Litter: CRITICAL. The entire floor of the enclosure must be covered in sterilized leaf litter (Live Oak, Magnolia, or Indian Almond leaves). Frogs live in and on the leaf litter; it prevents the soil from sticking to them and rotting their delicate skin.
• Decor & Hardscaping: Use cork bark tubes, ghost wood, and live plants (Pothos, Philodendrons, Bromeliads). Provide plenty of visual barriers so frogs can establish their own micro-territories.

Humidity & Water

• Humidity: Must be maintained very high, between 80%–100%.
• Misting: Hand mist with a spray bottle 1-2 times daily, or use an automatic misting/rain system. Ensure the tank never completely dries out.
• Water Source: Provide a very shallow water dish (they are poor swimmers and can drown in deep water).
• Water Quality: Fill the dish with dechlorinated tap water only. Never use plain tap water, and never use RO or distilled water alone in the dish. RO or distilled water is for misting. Tap water containing chlorine, chloramines, or heavy metals will absorb into their skin and kill them.

Temperature & Lighting

• Ideal Temperature: 70–76°F (21–24°C).
• Nighttime: A little cooler at night is fine.
• WARNING - HEAT SENSITIVITY: Temperatures above 80°F (27°C) can be fatal. Heat lamps are almost never required unless the room is very cold.
• Lighting: Provide a full-spectrum LED plant light for live plant growth. Low-level UVB (Zone 1) is optional but recommended for D3 synthesis.

Diet & Nutrition

Primary Diet

• Micro-Insects: Dart frogs do not have teeth and have very small mouths. They eat Flightless Fruit Flies. Because auratus are slightly smaller than tinctorius, the smaller Drosophila melanogaster is ideal for froglets, though adults can take Drosophila hydei.
• Other Feeders: Springtails and small isopods. No feeder should be longer than the space between the frog's eyes.
• Feeding Frequency: Feed froglets daily and adults every second or third day. Watch body shape: a frog showing hip bones needs more food.

Supplements (CRITICAL)

• Calcium & Vitamins: Dart frogs are extremely prone to Metabolic Bone Disease and Vitamin A deficiency. Every feeding of fruit flies MUST be dusted with calcium. Use calcium with D3 at most feedings, plus a multivitamin about once a week, following the powder label.
• Recommended Brands: Repashy Calcium Plus is highly recommended.

Socialization & Behavior

Social Needs

• Dendrobates auratus are one of the most communal dart frogs in the hobby. An established 18x18x18 inch or larger vivarium with plenty of hiding spots can house 2 to 4. Add frogs slowly, make sure every frog is eating, and separate them if one bullies the others.
• Provide plenty of visual barriers (plants and wood) so they can get away from each other if they choose.

Handling (DO NOT HANDLE)

• Handling: Dart frogs should never be handled unless absolutely necessary.
• Why? Their skin is incredibly thin, porous, and highly absorbent. The natural oils, salts, and any soap/lotion residues on human hands will absorb directly into their bloodstream and cause severe illness or death.
• If you MUST move them, coax them into a small plastic cup using a soft leaf, or wear powder-free, wet nitrile gloves.

Health & Husbandry

Common Health Issues

1. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) — Symptoms: Jerky movements, unable to hop, seizing, rubbery jaw. / Cause: Lack of calcium and Vitamin D3 dusting on feeder insects. / Prevention: Strict adherence to dusting schedule.
2. Short Tongue Syndrome — Symptoms: The frog strikes at a fruit fly, but the tongue doesn't stick. / Cause: Vitamin A deficiency. / Next step: See a vet who treats amphibians.
3. Red-Leg Syndrome (Bacterial Dermatosepticemia) — Symptoms: Redness on the belly and underside of the legs, lethargy. / Cause: Bacterial infection often triggered by stress, dirty conditions, or waterlogged substrate (soggy soil with no drainage). / Prevention: Keep leaf litter dry on top while soil below remains moist. Seek vet care immediately.

Signs of Illness

• Red Flag: Weight loss (visible hip bones or a sunken belly)
• Red Flag: Sitting in the water dish constantly (a sign of dehydration or parasites)
• Red Flag: Lethargy, dull coloring, or hiding constantly
• Red Flag: Spasms or twitching

What We Use & Recommend

These are products we use and recommend for Bioactive Dart Frog setups. Stock varies by store, so ask us what we have in store today.

Last updated: 2026-08-04

How We Keep Them at Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply

• Beating Dry Oregon Furnace Air (and Summer Heat Spikes): Across the Willamette Valley and Portland Metro, running the house furnace all winter drops indoor humidity to 25–35%, which quickly causes dried-out skin and dehydration in screen-top tanks. To hold 80–100% RH reliably for Green And Black Dart Frog, our crew uses a deep substrate bed (or our store-shelf 10-Part Bioactive Mix of ReptiSoil, Coco Fiber, Orchiata Bark, Sphagnum Moss, and Leaf Litter), a dedicated humid hide packed with damp sphagnum moss, and partial screen cover when needed.
• Thermostat & Linear UVB Standard: Our dart frogs get no basking lamp. We keep their room at 70–76°F and always below 80°F, with an LED plant light on a 12-hour day/night timer. Any heat source runs on a thermostat.
• Shopping at Newberg & Gresham: For enclosures, thermostats, UVB lighting, bioactive supplies, springtails, isopods and feeders at Critter Cabana (Newberg) and Gresham Pet Supply, ask us what we have in store today.

Common Questions (FAQ)

What size tank does an adult Green And Black Dart Frog actually need?

An adult Green and Black Dart Frog needs at least an 18x18x18 inch planted bioactive vivarium. Keep it at 70–76°F, always below 80°F, with no basking lamp.

How do I keep Green And Black Dart Frog humidity at 80–100% RH during dry Oregon winters?

Oregon winter furnace heat dries out thin bedding fast. Use a deep moisture-retaining substrate mix (such as Zoo Med ReptiSoil blended with coco fiber, Orchiata bark, and sphagnum moss), provide an enclosed humid hide, and cover 50–70% of an open screen top with HVAC foil tape or a PVC panel if ambient humidity drops too low.

What is the best bioactive clean-up crew for a Green And Black Dart Frog?

Pair springtails with one isopod kind that likes a humid tank. We'll help you pick an isopod kind that suits your tank's climate, and pick one isopod kind per build. Our 1-Page or Tri-Fold Bioactive Substrate Recipe Guide covers the rest.

Where can I get Green And Black Dart Frog setup supplies, live feeders, and thermostats in Oregon?

Ask us what we have in store today at Critter Cabana in Newberg (514 E First St, 503-537-2887) and Gresham Pet Supply (2185 NW Burnside Rd, 503-665-7606).