Species Profile & Temperament

Before You Buy: Chameleons are incredibly rewarding, but they are not beginner pets. They are sensitive to stress, require highly specific lighting and hydration setups (they don't drink from bowls), and must be housed in screen enclosures. They are strict "observation-only" pets.

Housing & Enclosure

Enclosure Type & Size

• Type: Screen Enclosure REQUIRED. Glass tanks trap stale, damp air, which leads to breathing problems.
• Minimum for Adults: 24" x 24" x 48" (Width x Depth x Height). Height is absolutely critical.
• Minimum for Juveniles: 18" x 18" x 36", for young juveniles only.
• Enclosure Recommendations: Zoo Med ReptiBreeze (XL).

Substrate

• Recommended: Bare floor or paper towels.
• Avoid: ALL loose substrates (soil, bark, moss, sand). Chameleons shoot their sticky tongues to catch prey; if they hit the ground, they will ingest the substrate, which can cause a blockage.

Décor & Enrichment

• Vines & Branches: Fill the top half of the enclosure with horizontal and diagonal climbing vines of varying thicknesses.
• Live Plants: Highly recommended for humidity retention and drinking surfaces. Must be non-toxic, as veiled chameleons will chew on leaves.
• Safe plants: Pothos, Ficus benjamina, Schefflera (Umbrella Tree), Hibiscus.
• Wash all plants thoroughly and repot in organic topsoil to remove pesticides before putting them in the tank.
• Placement: Put the highest basking branch under the heat and UVB lamps. Follow the lamp maker's guidance on distance.

Temperature

Chameleons regulate their body temperature by moving vertically.

Heating

• Primary: Low-wattage incandescent or halogen bulb placed in a dome fixture resting on top of the screen.
• CRITICAL: Use a digital thermometer with a probe placed directly on the basking branch to ensure it does not go above 90°F. Chameleons will sit under a light that is too hot until they suffer severe thermal burns.

Humidity & Hydration (CRITICAL)

Chameleons DO NOT drink from standing water bowls. They only drink moving water droplets off leaves.

• Humidity: 50–70%, with high screen airflow. The cage should dry out between waterings during the day and be more humid at night.
• Fogger: A fogger is not a drinking source.
• Hydration Methods:

1. Dripper: A "Little Dripper" constantly dripping water onto a broad leaf throughout the day.
2. Misting: Mist the plants with a hand mister or a misting system so the leaves are wet and your chameleon can drink. Follow your mister's instructions.

Lighting (CRITICAL: UVB)

• Photoperiod: Lights on in the day and fully dark at night.
• UVB: ABSOLUTELY REQUIRED. Without UVB, a chameleon can't use calcium properly and develops Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD).
• Type: Use a linear UVB tube that runs across the top of the enclosure. Screen tops block some UVB, so follow the bulb maker's guidance on distance.
• Replacement: Replace the UVB tube when the bulb maker says.

Diet & Nutrition

Feeding Schedule

How much and how often depends on age and body condition. Ask our reptile staff for help, and see a vet who sees reptiles with any question about weight or appetite.

Prey Items

• Staples: Crickets, Dubia roaches, silkworms, black soldier fly larvae (Nutrigrubs).
• Treats (Sparingly): Hornworms (excellent for hydration), superworms.
• Greens: Veiled chameleons are unique in that they occasionally eat vegetation. Offer a clipped leaf of collard greens or mustard greens now and then.
• Size Rule: Insects should be no wider than the space between the chameleon's eyes.

Supplements (The Dusting Schedule)

1. Calcium: Dust insects with calcium every time you feed.
2. Calcium WITH D3: Use it at most feedings.
3. Multivitamin: About once a week.

Follow the label on the powder.

Gut-Loading

• Feed insects a highly nutritious diet (carrots, sweet potatoes, squash, dark leafy greens) 24 to 48 hours before feeding them to the chameleon. Follow the gut-load label. "You are what your food eats."

Health & Husbandry

Common Health Issues

1. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) — Symptoms: Bowed/rubbery legs, inability to grip branches, crooked jaw, tongue shooting fails. / Cause: Lack of T5 UVB lighting or lack of dietary calcium. / Prevention: Strict adherence to lighting and supplement schedules.
2. Dehydration / Sunken Eyes — Symptoms: The eyes appear sunken into the turrets, urates (the white part of the poop) are yellow or orange instead of pure white. / Cause: Lack of dripping/misting water. / See a vet who sees reptiles.
3. Respiratory Infection (RI) — Symptoms: Pointing nose up in the air, gaping mouth, wheezing, excessive mucus. / Cause: Housed in a glass tank (stagnant air) or enclosure staying soaking wet all day. See a vet who sees reptiles right away.
4. Egg Binding (Dystocia in Females) — Female veiled chameleons will lay eggs even if they have never seen a male. If you have a female, talk to a vet who sees reptiles about egg-laying before she needs it. A female who is digging, restless or not eating should see a vet.

Shedding

• Chameleons shed in flaky patches. It should complete within a day or two. Ensure humidity spikes at night to help with the process. Never peel the skin.

Veterinary Needs

• Locate an exotics veterinarian before you buy a chameleon. They hide illnesses exceptionally well; by the time they look sick, it is often a medical emergency.

Morphs & Varieties

Veiled chameleons do not have true, localized morphs like Panther Chameleons.

• "Sunburst" / "High Yellow" / "Turquoise": These are marketing terms (designer names) for selectively bred chameleons showing brighter greens, yellows, or blues. They are not true genetic morphs.
• Translucent (Hypo/Trans): A true genetic mutation where the skin lacks white pigment, making it slightly see-through. They often look paler or slightly pinkish-green.
• Piebald (Pied): A genetic mutation causing random patches of bright white, unpigmented skin across the body, contrasting with the normal green coloration.

Handling Guidelines

• Look, Don't Touch: Chameleons are easily stressed by handling. Chronic stress suppresses their immune system, leading to illness.
• The "Treadmill": If you must handle them (for cage cleaning or health checks), coax them onto a stick or let them walk hand-over-hand.
• Never Grab: Never grab a chameleon around the body or pull them off a branch (they will break their own ribs or toes holding on).
• Color Meanings: A bright green, relaxed chameleon is happy. A chameleon showing dark blacks, browns, or intense spots is highly stressed, cold, or angry.

Compatibility

• Cohabitation: NEVER. Chameleons are fiercely territorial. Housing two together will result in the dominant one bullying the other through intimidation (hogging the heat/food) until the subordinate one dies of stress. Keep them strictly alone.

Oregon & Local Keeping Notes

• Oregon: For permit or local rule questions, ask a store manager.

What We Stock & Use in Our Stores

These are products we carry and recommend for this species. Ask any associate for help finding them in-store.

Last updated: 2026-08-04

How We Keep Them at Critter Cabana & Gresham Pet Supply

• Beating Dry Oregon Furnace Air (and Summer Heat Spikes): Across the Willamette Valley and Portland Metro, running the house furnace all winter drops indoor humidity to 25–35%, which quickly causes stuck sheds and dehydration in screen-top tanks. To hold 50–70% for Veiled Chameleon, our crew uses live plants, a dripper and misting, with high screen airflow. Chameleons get a bare floor, never loose substrate.
• Thermostat & Linear UVB Standard: Every heating element in our Newberg and Gresham reptile rooms runs on a thermostat. For chameleons that means an 85-90°F basking branch with 72-78°F lower down, and lights on a day/night timer. In summer, if an upstairs room climbs above 82°F, a dimming thermostat automatically backs down the basking lamp so the cool side never overheats.
• Shopping at Newberg & Gresham: For enclosures, thermostats, UVB lighting, bioactive supplies, springtails, isopods and feeders at Critter Cabana (Newberg) and Gresham Pet Supply, ask us what we have in store today.

Common Questions (FAQ)

What size tank does an adult Veiled Chameleon actually need?

An adult Veiled Chameleon needs at least 24x24x48 inches tall screen enclosure, so you can keep an 85-90°F basking branch up top and 72-78°F lower down.

How do I keep Veiled Chameleon humidity at 50-70% during dry Oregon winters?

Use live plants, a dripper and regular misting. Keep the floor bare, with no loose substrate, and keep good screen airflow. The cage should dry out between waterings during the day.

Should a Veiled Chameleon have a bioactive soil floor?

No. A chameleon's tongue can pick up soil, bark or sand along with an insect. A bare floor or paper towel is the safe choice.

Where can I get Veiled Chameleon setup supplies, live feeders, and thermostats in Oregon?

Ask us what we have in store today at Critter Cabana in Newberg (514 E First St, 503-537-2887) and Gresham Pet Supply (2185 NW Burnside Rd, 503-665-7606).